The 10 New Skincare Ingredients You Are Seeing Everywhere
Okay, so who else feels like as soon as you’ve got your skincare ingredients know-how under control, the goal posts change and totally NEW ingredients appear? If you already know your AHAs from your BHAs and your vitamin ABCs and their benefits then you are doing extremely well because things can get complex real quick! And now in 2020, it feels like skincare research just keeps getting faster and faster. It’s exciting that new research is finding amazing results and providing wonderful benefits.
I would like to share with you 10 hot new ingredients of 2020 which can be found in toners, serums and moisturizers. And most importantly, they actually work! So here we go…
1. The Gentler Acids: LHA + PHA
What is LHA? While Alpha-hydroxy and beta-hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs) are well known acne-fighters, you might not have heard of LHA (lipohydroxy acid). A derivative of salicylic acid, the major benefit of LHA lies in its gentle, non-irritating mode of exfoliation. Meaning it’s tough on acne, gentle on sensitive skin.
LHA’s keratolytic (exfoliating) action lifts dead skin cells from the surface of the skin for a smoother complexion. And while salicylic acid has a pH around 3, LHA’s hovers around 5—much closer to the natural pH of healthy skin so it is well tolerated by even the most sensitive of skin. This means it’s less harsh to use than many chemical exfoliants, such as benzoyl peroxide, and even suitable for sensitive skin.
While it penetrates less deeply than salicylic acid, LHA is more lipophilic, meaning it is better able to dissolve in fats, oils and lipids, meaning it can penetrate into oil-clogged pores and break up blockages. Apart from preventing and treating existing breakouts, LHA can also stimulate collagen and elastin production—perfect for keeping skin plump and exfoliated when it’s also the most sensitive, like during transient seasons or deep in winter.
Benefit #1 of LHA: It Gently Exfoliates
According to the National Institute of Health, “The slow penetration of LHA results in an individual cell-by-cell exfoliation that is associated with excellent tolerability,” compared to its cousin salicylic acid. When dead skin cell buildup is sloughed away from the skin’s surface, it can appear clarified and refreshed.
Benefit #2 of LHA: It Can Help Promote Youthful-Looking Skin
To help address the natural visible effects of ageing like fine lines and wrinkles, products formulated with LHA can reveal brighter-looking skin.
PHA, on the other hand, is a specific kind of alpha hydroxy acid. Like other AHAs, Polyhydroxy acid is water-soluble, and works on the skin's surface to smooth texture and lighten dark spots. But, unlike other AHAs, PHA molecules are big and can’t penetrate skin. That’s one reason why it’s a gentler acid. Another is that PHA can also act as a humectant, drawing moisture to the surface of skin and preventing that post-acid dry out. It’s best for sensitive skin that needs a little help with evening tone.
How you can try it: Probably in a toner. There are a few good options—a couple of them mix the gentler acids with more intense ones (like glycolic), thereby dilluting the more potent acid so it can be used regularly by all skin types.
2. Electrolytes
No longer reserved for sports drinks, in 2020 you'll also find electrolytes in your skin-care products. Namely, calcium, potassium, and magnesium, which "work together to help maintain skin's optimal function, especially in maintaining hydration levels," explains cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson.
Quick science lesson: Electrolytes "are minerals that carry an electric charge," explains New York City-based dermatologist Dendy Engelman, who cites magnesium as the most beneficial electrolyte for skin, specifically.
"Magnesium helps with overall cell function and blood flow, helping the skin and muscles be more supple. Electrolytes also help acne and other skin disorders by reducing stress and cortisol levels, stabilizing hormonal imbalances, and improving cellular processes,"
3. Centella Asiatica: The Overnight Healer
Centella asiatica is sometimes called Asiatic pennywort, gotu kola, jalbrahmi, or even just cica for short. It is a plant native to parts of Asia and Africa and even though it’s benefits have only recently been discovered by western science, it has been used in traditional medicine for thousands of years.
Because Centella asiatica is a wound healer, it can be used for skin issues such as picked pimples and is therefore best for the acne-prone or skin with a compromised barrier function. It soothes redness and inflammation and studies have shown it to relieve symptoms of eczema due to it’s anti-oxidant properties.
Centalla’s Four Main Compounds:
There are four main chemical compounds in centella that give it those soothing, plumping, healing properties: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Centella extract or centella leaf water contains these active compounds, but it’s not clear how much—so you’re better off looking for them listed individually on an ingredient list for a more potent product. Another thing to note: just because centella is used for healing and redness-reducing doesn’t mean you’re totally safe from a bad reaction. Since it’s a plant, you could totally be allergic to centella—you’ll know if it has a burning effect on your skin.
How you can try it: Centella is found in toners, serums, creams, and SPF, so it’s easy to work it into your routine. Pick the formulation that speaks to you!
4. Bakuchiol: The Retinol Alternative
What is it? Retinol is often thought to be a multi-tasking skin superhero, but there’s no denying that it’s a very strong, powerful ingredient. Some pretty nasty side effects of retinol can include dryness and skin peeling, which can make it intolerable to some sensitive skin types. New studies show that a fairly new ingredient called bakuchiol is being heralded as a gentler retinol alternative. The interesting part, however, is that bakuchiol (which has roots in ancient Chinese and Aruyvedic medicine) is a compound found in the seeds and leaves of the psoralea corylifolia plant— and shares no structural resemblance to retinoids.
What you should know: Even still, a clinical case study from the NCBI was performed that showed significant improvement in the appearance of lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, photodamage, and more after twice-a-day applications of skin care products formulated with bakuchiol over a 12-week period. The suggestion then is that bakuchiol has great potential to deliver anti-aging effects similar to retinol. How cool is that!
How you can try it: In a serum that you use at night… or in the morning. Bakuchiol is not photo-senstive like retinol so you’re all good to use it at whatever time you please.
5. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: A Scent Like Kombucha:
What it is: Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, or GFF, is a product of fermented yeast. There’s some promising research about it—this study shows positive results in treating acne with it. Another study looked at GFF’s antioxidant capabilities, which seem pretty solid. But GFF’s most impressive funtion is repairing a compromised moisture barrier. Studies like this one note that GFF not only repairs damage, but also prevents it. It’s great for sensitive skin, and pairs well with other moisture barrier building blocks, like ceramides and facial oils. And it gets extra points for being fun to say!
What you should know: Because it’s fermented, GFF is a postbiotic. A combination of amino acids and antioxidants freed up by the fermentation product feeds the good bacteria already living on your skin. Basically, it’s Popeye spinach for skin, helping it grow stronger and clearer on its own.
How you can try it: In an essence. The classic version is SK-II, but lots of newer brands have their own versions that are arguably just as effective.
6. CBD OIL (CANNABIDIOL)
Cannabis has been a hot topic for quite some time now, and more recently, the discussion has entered the realm of dermatology thanks to reports that the controversial ingredient can benefit the skin. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), cannabis has anti-inflammatory properties. As such, there’s a possibility that topical formulations with CBD oil may help reduce inflammation associated with certain inflammatory skin conditions like acne, psoriasis, and eczema. Keep in mind that products formulated with CBD oil will not give you a ‘high’ because they do not contain THC, the chemical responsible for the psychoactive effects of marijuana. If you want to give products formulated with cannabis a try Halo is the New Black CBD Oil, the AAD recommends testing a small area of skin with the formula first. If no reaction occurs, apply the product as directed on the packaging.
7. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAS)
When you think of chemical skin exfoliators, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) surely come to mind. But have you heard of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs)? They are a new group of hydroxy acids—referred to as a new generation of AHAs—that’s buzzing around social media and the skin care community. Similar to AHAs and BHAs, PHAs are chemical exfoliators that help slough away dead cells from the skin’s surface in an effort to promote an even tone and radiant appearance.
So, what makes PHAs so special? According to a study published by the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI), PHAs offer similar benefits to AHAs but are less likely to irritate the skin. As such, PHAs can be suitable for use post-procedure and by sensitive skin types. What’s more, compared to their AHA cousins, PHAs are more moisturizing and can help strengthen skin barrier function. Some of the most popular PHAs are gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
8. Grapeseed Oil
Have you heard the buzz about grapeseed oil? If you’re late to the party or simply haven’t had a chance to look into it, we’re here to fill you in on this trending ingredient. With multiple benefits ranging from exfoliation to skin firming, it’s no wonder this ingredient is the talk of the town! If you’re interested in reaping some of the benefits, consider adding the Halo is the New Black Night Repair Serum to your routine. Formulated with a super light Jojoba and Rosehip base, this serum is suitable for all skin types
9. Glycolic Acid
Remember those AHAs we mentioned earlier? Well, that’s the group of skin care ingredients glycolic acid falls into. Per the U.S. Food & Drug Administration, glycolic acid is an AHA used in cosmetics. And like we touched on, this trending ingredient helps to exfoliate and resurface your skin.
10. Niacinamide
It's not a new ingredient, but niacinamide, or vitamin B3, has long been overshadowed by fellow antioxidant powerhouse, vitamin C. Yet, dare we say it, niacinamide touts just as many skin-boosting benefits.
"Niacinamide is a vitamin B3 derivative that helps revitalize, firm, and smooth skin and minimize the appearance of large pores," explains New York City dermatologist Howard Sobel.
Incredibly, it also works to stimulate new tissue growth and collagen production, while simultaneously calming redness, fighting off free radicals, and evening out skin tone. Oh, and it works on all skin types!
This article is intended as general information only. You should seek advice from a professional before starting a new regime or course of conduct.